Tag: Nepal

Rain On

It is pouring rain outside. Pouring with the kind of intensity that would keep you off the roads and safe at home if it were snow. But it isn’t snow. TBTg.

I used to hate rain. Destroyer of picnic plans. Ruination of spring weddings (though rain on a wedding day is supposed to be good luck. Heaven knows why. Certainly not for the bride’s wedding dress.)

A random rain shower for which you are unprepared can leave you cold and damp. Then the rain adds insult to injury and utterly abandons any semblance of comfort once you go inside.

You might have to sit on a hard wooden seat in the damp and cold while suffering through a less than scintillating lecture. The cold and damp do nothing to elevate the subject matter. Quite the opposite. They mirror it a little too precisely.

At home, at least, you get to strip down, throw the outerwear in the dryer, get into some cozy dry clothes and start the day over.

In point of fact, rainy days have not always been doom and gloom for me. I’ve had magical experiences in rain. Years ago, I was preparing to trek the Pokhara to Jomsom route in Nepal. The crude hotel rooms were a bit makeshift by our standards. They were really nothing more than cinder blocks stacked on top of one another.

Set on the four corners of the block walls, the roof was simple sheets of corrugated metal, held down by fairly hefty rocks. This flimsy arrangement held together well enough most of the time. Until monsoon season.

if you have ever been caught in a monsoon downpour, you are unlikely to forget it. The nearest analogy I can come up with is standing directly under a waterfall with an industrial fan blowing at you.

The corrugated sheets of the roof were no match for the monsoon. I was both dazzled and distressed by its power. When the roof of your hotel room blows off and flies away into the distance, it creates some intense feelings.

My primary concern was for my precious Canon 35 mm SLR camera left in my hotel room. It would not survive, I was sure. I dove into the room, fished it out from under the bed covers where I’d stowed it for safety and tucked it under my clothes. Hugging the lens toward my chest, waiting for the deluge to die down.

In a similar monsoon season in Sri Lanka, another downpour aforded a unique personal care experience. The rain shower was so intense and lasted so long I was able to go out into the hotel courtyard to wash my hair. Not only wash it but condition and rinse it with plenty of time to spare.

They say that into every life, a little rain must fall. That is not necessarily always a bad thing.

More and more, I see rain more as a gift of nourishment. For the earth and the plants and for us. It refreshes everything. It washes the plants and softens the earth. It quenches their thirst. We recently planted fruit trees and a hedge around our house which are still being established.

The frequent rains are not only life-enhancing for the plants, but they let me off the watering hook when they come.

I am more than grateful for this frequent, if unbidden, gardening assistance. Rain on, say I.

Leaving on a Jet Plane

I’d like to say all my bags are packed and I’m ready to go. I’m not. That is what I will do today.

I used to love travel. I remember the excitement in getting ready for a big trip. And there were some very big trips in my life.

From my home base in Canada, I flew to Sri Lanka for a three month walking trek and sojourn through India and Nepal. On another occasion, I flew to Seoul Korea to connect with my family on tiny and dazzling beautiful black sand Jeju Island off South Korea’s coast.

Then there was the southern sojourn to Argentina to take a ten day horse trek across the Andes. And I once flew due North and landed in Iqaluit, Nunavut for several frost filled days to attend the Arctic Winter Games.

Many writers laud the benefits of travel. I do. It changes you. It broadens your perspective on so many things. It can shatter the illusion of cultural superiority that some secretly harbor if they have not travelled very far from their home base.

One look at a carved monument in almost any country should knock that out of your system pretty quickly. Not always, of course. But often.

Travel is a kind of education that you cannot replicate by reading books. Books stimulate the imagination. Travel stimulates the senses. Nothing could replace the overwhelming sights and sounds of a spice market in New Delhi, India.

Celebrating Holi, the festival of colors, is one of the most unique occasions I’ve ever taken part in. In under an hour, me and my traveling companions were physically drenched in a dozen colors from handfuls of special chalk thrown at us. Deliberately!

As you wander the streets of New Delhi (or anywhere in India on that unique, special holiday), everyone is equally streaked with multiple colors of dust.

Indians generally have a great sense of occasion. Nothing can match the style and splendor of an Indian wedding drenched in rich fabrics, brilliant colors and enticing smells.

When most of my college buddies were working at traditional summer jobs after the term was over, I spent every summer traveling on some pretense or another. Europe. First as a waitress in a massive tourist hotel and the following summer as a student. Then Egypt as a student after my third year.

After graduation, I spent several months traipsing through Asia. So many indelible memories. So much experience and learning – mostly good.

I am leaving my country again. This time, on a more permanent basis. We cannot predict the future with flawless accuracy but we can make some educated guesses.

For me that means the next few years will be spent among my continent mates directly to our South. Living in the USA at this juncture in history is an ongoing daily education. I won’t make a qualitative call on what I’m learning there.

Travel brings you home with new eyes. You see everything that was familiar and there before but differently somehow.

It is easy for me to appreciate the old song, “How you gonna keep ‘em down on the farm after they’ve seen Pa-ree?” Travel was like an addiction where the more I did it, the more I craved. I deemed it a healthy addiction and only now see the cravings diminishing somewhat.

Hours from now, I’ll be winging my way South to rejoin my husband and put this country in the rearview mirror for awhile.

When the jet place departs, I fully expect my bags to be packed and ready to go.

As ready as I’ll ever be at any rate.

Keep Going

The halfway point in any project, plan, a life is usually a time for stocktaking and reflection.

I remember getting halfway through my last degree and I really wanted to throw in the towel. I didn’t in the end, but I wanted to. So why didn’t I?

Self-respect was a factor. I am not a quitter and it is both a strength and a weakness that once I commit to something, I stay the course. In this example, quite literally and figuratively.

Sometimes backtracking is as unattractive an option as going forward. Imagine being on Mt. Everest halfway to the summit. You have planned that trip for months, maybe years.

And when you find yourself in a whiteout blizzard at one of the most treacherous junctions on the mountain, your choices are pretty much prescribed.

This is a challenge you are unlikely to tackle again (though astonishingly, many do). There has been a huge investment of time, energy, hope and money in thrashing out the logistics. For mountain climbers, I gather the inherent danger and many uncertainties in scaling mountains are what make the attempt appealing.

So you’re in. It is only when that blizzard comes up and your toes or fingers or tip of your nose are starting to turn into that ominous shade of opaque white that signals frostbite that mild panic may set in.

Well, it would for me anyway. I am sure there are lots of mountain climbers out there for whom missing digits and raggedy nostrils or earlobes are marks of triumph. They are if you are in a room talking to them. That means they didn’t lose the major bits at a punishing altitude in the Himalayas.

I dabbled in adventure but was never all all-in. I trekked in the Himalayas when Nepal was still quite closed off to the rest of the world. My trek took me through some of the most visually stunning landscapes I’d ever seen. Snow-capped mountains highlighted against a bright blue sky under the midday sun.

Rhododendron forests as high as our North American maple trees and gushing with blooms of bright red, dark pink and light pink. I remember stopping at a rock rest cairn along that stretch and just sitting for an hour taking it all in.

On that trek, I was headed for a temple at Jomson but eventually did quit at about the halfway mark. I was physically done and saw only days of more exertion ahead and moving farther away from civilization. In a profoundly city folk act, I was able to hire a mule train to ride back to Pokhara where the trek had begun. I’d had enough. And riding the mules was pretty cool.

I crossed the Andes from Argentina to Chile on horseback. That was a little different where there were gauchos to guide and cook for us so we were a little more pampered and protected. Which is not to say that there weren’t plenty of petrifying moments. I trusted that the horse did not want to die and had done this trip many times before. Happily, my trust paid off. Else I wouldn’t be writing this post.

So my offloading and decluttering project is at about the halfway mark. I would love nothing more than to collect my gear, pack up my tent and walk away leaving behind the mountain of tasks yet to do.

But I won’t. That self-respect thing has kicked in again. I have started something and I will damn well finish it come hell or high water. Just need to find me a metaphorical stone rest cairn to lean on for awhile to catch my breath.

Then I will lift up my pack and head off down the trail again. All the while scanning the horizon for a metaphorical mule train to scoop me up and make this journey home much more enjoyable.

Winston Churchill famously said: “When you’re going through hell, keep going.” Noted.

Playing for Change

I watched a music video tonight. It suddenly opened my eyes to something I’d never quite understood before. (Ironically, the song was called “Doctor My Eyes.”) I instantly understood why music (and art) generally is so threatening to power.

Playing for Change (https://www.playingforchange.com/home2) is a movement created to inspire and connect the world through music. Though separated by geography, countries and culture, music is a common language that can be shared by everyone.

Last night, a new Playing for Change video popped up. I watched in amazement as American singer Jackson Browne sat in his California studio accompanied by about fifteen accomplished musicians from around the world.

As Browne sat at his piano and sang his 1972 hit song, Doctor My Eyes, he was joined by video links with singers and musicians from around the world playing on sitars, an African grass piano, rain sticks, electric guitars and their own voices. The music was amazing as is the PFC message. “No matter where we come from, music helps us overcome our differences.”

The insight I had is that power is maintained in this world through deliberate separation and compartmentalization. Op. cit. apartheid. It’s easy to understand why that appeals to power. Smaller groups are easier to control.

Staying small and disconnected from each other diminishes the ability for members of different groups to get to know and understand one other. “Fear of the other” kicks in and defines many inter-group relationships.

Simple miscommunication and misunderstanding underpin many interpersonal and global conflicts. Even social conflicts: think racism and anti-Semitism. The more disconnected and separate groups remain, the more isolated and vulnerable they are.

I think back to how naive I was working in a government bureaucracy.

They sentenced me to twenty years of boredom, trying to change the system from within … Leonard Cohen https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_We_Take_Manhattan

I was appalled by the redundancy and waste in so many different branches and divisions. They were often devoted to many of the same tasks without communicating between themselves. This frequently caused problems when one group’s findings or directives or priorities conflicted with another. Yet it went on all the time.

How much more sensible and efficient it would be, I reasoned, if these groups worked together toward a common goal. And that was when I learned about “silos.”

These disparate bureaucratic groups between departments or in departments were called “silos.” Each “silo” is headed up by someone like a director or manager. The hierarchy is fixed. How much time and energy did I waste creating organizational charts!

Silos exist in organizations like a government bureaucracy and they will always be there for a simple reason. There are those who like to be in control. There are others who like to be controlled. They are two distinct personality types.

The two are attracted to each other like moths to a flame. Their respective positions are distinct and well-defined. It gives both of them a sense of certainty and security. The thinking seems to go: “I am the boss and you are my underling. As we both agree on that, we will both get our needs met and contribute to our mutual well-being and security.” As long as we both obey the rules….

But life isn’t like a carefully constructed organizational chart. There is no absolute fixed hierarchy in nature, for example, in which roles remain rigid and inflexible. Roles fluctuate with age and death and the local geography and weather conditions and supply and demand.

Life is actually messy and surprising and random. Usually only as we get older do we come to understand and accept that. There is never going to be an immutable, safe haven. At best, we have all agreed to a tacit and self-serving civility to maintain our stability and security as we know and expect.

From years of travel, I became familiar and comfortable within many different cultures. The rukle was pretty simple: “Treat others as you would want to be treated.” That worked around the world for the most part.

For many years, I eagerly sought out foreign culture and experiences. I have met people for whom this is the very definition of a nightmare.

People regularly travel to foreign countries, but usually in ways that support and mirror the standards and expectations of their own culture. Bus tours. Cruises. Biking adventures. All with people “just like them” and amenities “just like home.” Super structured. Super safe. And sorry, but super boring.

I have happily travelled the rough and ready way. Slept on a dirt floor in a Nepali hut. Camped on the open tundra in the high Arctic. And, my favorite, in a life preserver box on a ferry crossing across the Atlantic. In smelly canvas tents on a horse trek across the Andes. Once had to sleep in those smelly tents in the middle of a snowstorm.

Each of those experiences changed me in ways I don’t suppose I’ve even yet fully realized. I only know I remain open and curious.

Playing for Change seeks to expose viewers to different cultures in less immersive ways than actually being where the musicians are. But this is not a Carnegie Hall concert experience.

Sitar players sit and play on rattan chairs on the edge of a jungle. Black Jamaicans play guitars on the side of a street with broken pavement. In Argentina, an accordionist plays to the rapt attention of two little girls sitting on and looking up from two tiny, little chairs.

Unstructured. Messy. Unpredictable. Each and every one different.

All beautiful. Such a gift to be able to share in that experience.

Play on, Playing For Change. You are doing such a good thing.

Enough Already

When is enough? I have asked the question before. When do we know we have done enough in aid of what we are trying to achieve in life?

Periodically in life, it is of value to do some stock-taking. An inventory, if you will, of what we have and don’t have. Materially, emotionally, and physically. What we still want and don’t have. What’s good about our life and what has to go.

Life can be marked by patches of plenty and want. The sages out there say that. we increase our chances of getting what we want by being grateful for what we have right now. I have found that this works. Or at the very least, it can relieve the negativity of a situation we’re struggling in.

I believe most of us can live comfortably on quite a bit less than advertisers and social expectations would have us believe. Envy and greed are all too human vulnerabilities that are easily exploited.

If every comfort we seek is outside of us, we have no time to just be alone and luxuriate in our own thoughts. I have found that times of external scarcity were my greatest teachers. I was often terrified as I could not imagine my external circumstances would ever change.

And yet they did. It was true that when one door closed, another opened. It finally became obvious that I was not totally in charge of my ultimate path or destination. We can pursue and wish deeply for what we want in our lives. Sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn’t.

It is what we do with the bare patches in life that shape us the most.

I was a world traveler who sought out the cheapest ways of getting around. I carried only a backpack and valuables in a fanny pack or neck wallet. I was a camping buff as a young adult.

Distilling life down to its barest elements of food, water, warmth, and shelter was clarifying, in a way. It was good to be reminded how little we needed when living like that. We learned – if worse came to worse – we could chuck city trappings and survive on little more than our wits, a canteen of fresh water, and a couple of cans of beans. Or the French equivalent was a baguette, cheese, and a cheap bottle of red wine.

By living poor, I also learned a lot about grace. I once trekked in the Himalayas in Nepal. One afternoon, I went to lie down and set up camp by a small building in a village. A young girl of about 14 years old and some friends came by to watch what I was doing.

When she realized I was planning to sleep there in the open that night, she panicked. “No sleeping, no sleeping,” she said frantically while motioning across her neck with her thumb. “Man come… killing.” That night, I was happy to crawl into my sleeping bag laid out on the dirt floor of her parents’ small village hut.

The next morning I was served the most delicious eggs I ever had that had been cooked in a black bottom pan over an open fire pit in the middle of the hut. That memory has stayed with me. It is a story of how my life may have been saved out of the blue by a caring little girl. The other lesson I came away with was how rich their life seemed to be in one of the poorest places on earth.

I am currently stock-taking. As we prepare to move to a new house, I look around this house to see what needs to go with us to the new one. There is so much that will be left behind. Deliberately.

It feels odd to be at the place where we are ready to offload the possessions we have spent a lifetime accumulating. It does seem that is the way it goes. A less cluttered house – we hope – will allow for more living and creating. Me with my words and my husband at his easel.

I admire and I’m a little envious of those sage souls who know from very early on what they want to be and how they will live their life. It is a special kind of blessing. My life has been more of a trial-and-error experience. It has led me down various side roads and byways. It took many years of experiments to arrive at a place where life works for us.

Perhaps, put differently, we learn to be at peace with what is and accept what we have with gratitude and grace. I don’t waste too much time these days unpacking the hows and whys of the journey I took to get here. I feel profoundly lucky that I did.